Karl S. Williams - Musical Fool

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Small Halls - Week Two

In week two we really covered some ground and went more remote than I’ve been before. The vastness of Queensland is awe-inspiring. To look on a map and realise we’ve scarcely traversed a third of its width is a humbling perspective.

I love to travel by road because it allows you to get a really good impression of the the changes in vegetation, landscape, soil and underlying geology. Sometimes it is really pronounced; a previously unseen tree or flower suddenly appears, Mulga gives way to big Ghost Gums or to open grassland - it is endlessly stimulating to observe. I feel privileged to see these inland areas after rain and also in Spring when there are so many flowers. As we get further out it’s nice to see wide swathes of unfenced land and (at least to my eyes) fewer weed species.

The week began driving from Narrabri, NSW to Bollon in South West QLD. Dodging floodwaters and associated road closures along the way. We had a couple of days off in Bollon so I was excited to have some time to get a feel for the place.

We were privileged to have Kooma elder Bill Speedy and his Wife Judith take us for a walk on Bill’s ancestral country and I was particularly taken by the beautiful scar trees. Something of this antiquity has a powerful presence and is awesome to behold. Wallam Creek which flows through the town is imbued with this same presence. It was wonderful to see it so full.

From Bollon to Begonia, a beautiful little community North West of St George. The Australian Hotel in St George was our bed for the night. As with Wallam Creek, the Balonne River was looking particularly mighty after all the rain. It was wonderful to be moving again and everyone at Begonia was very warm and accommodating.

We zig-zagged North East to Baralaba, a solid six hour drive from St George. Baralaba is another wonderful little town with warm hospitality (and I think one of our biggest shows) and things begin to feel more tropical at this latitude. There was a great pub which was really jumping - and I’d be remiss not to mention our host Polly who was a vivacious delight to share a yarn or two with.

Next up we turned West again to Anakie in The Gemfields region. This was really beyond where I’d travelled before and it was wonderfully surprising. The landscape on approach to Anakie from Emerald becomes more mountainous and the soil supports larger trees. The community out there were fascinating and eclectic and we were privileged to have Richard (left) and Willow (right) share their music. I would love to explore this region more, I’m fascinated by the geology and now the people too.

From Anakie to Aramac we passed Barcaldine, an important place in the Australian labour movement. It feels poetic that the Tree of Knowledge was poisoned in 2006. The place, the nation that once nurtured this movement has become poisonous to it.

Thus ends another week. From Aramac we drove north to Torrens Creek which was around 300 kilometres of wilderness. From arid grassland and near-desert to heathland and big Acacia and Eucalyptus forests. We crossed the Great Divide again (pictured here at Burra Range lookout) and Eastward into Charters Towers where we get a couple of days rest before the next leg.